mens fashion

My “White Whale”

Good Morning Dapperites,

Alright, so we all have that one item of clothing/footwear/etc. that we lust after, that we really desire. Sometimes we’re able to get it sometimes we’re not. I thought today that I would share mine.

 

So what is my “white whale”? None other than an authentic Neapolitan jacket made bespoke, preferrably from Sartoria Dalcuore or Cesare Attolini. So what is a “Neapolitan” jacket anyway? As the name suggests it is a style that is distinctly from Naples. Here are its features:

 

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Half-Lined with sleeves completely unlined. Image from https://www.realmenrealstyle.com/jacket-lining/

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“Barchetta” Boat Shaped breast pocket

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A higher “gorge” and wider lapels with lower patch pockets Image from https://howtospendit.ft.com/mens-style/16861-a-frantic-fondness-for-neapolitan-tailoring

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“Kissing” Surgeon Cuff Buttons 

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3 roll 2, that is to say 3 buttons with the top one rolled back into the lapel so really 2 of them button. Image from https://parisiangentleman.co.uk/2017/05/07/what-is-the-origin-of-the-three-roll-two-jacket/

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A “spalla camicia” shoulder. Note the elegant “shirring” of the fabric

Which leads to the entire finished jacket looking like this:

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It’s beautiful, elegant, has that Neapolitan flair and perhaps more importantly. Keeps you cool during the summer months due to the minimal lining. Ah, one day you shall be mine!

 

So let me know in the comments what’s your “white whale” of fashion??

As always, keep it dapper,

 

-The Don

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Today’s Dapper Don’t!

Today’s Dapper Don’t comes from the Don’s brother himself! *gasp*. Now he was never well-versed into the world of style and menswear, but you’d think he would have picked up a thing or 2 around me. Instead I give you his Mother’s Day outfit:

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Now on first glance it doesn’t seem that bad, until you get to the shoes….yes with a casual outfit of shorts and a short sleeve shirt, he wore black square-toed dress shoes from 2005 because “They’re the only black shoes I have”. To you little bro I say this:

Here’s to hoping I can teach him a thing or 2. Until next time, salute!

-The Don

 

Old Suits, New Lives!

Good Morning Dapperites,

Recently I tried a “trend” that I got to admit I was very skeptical to try at first. Turns out it’s a great way to get more use out of the suits in your wardrobe. That “trend” is breaking up your suits into separates and mixing/matching jackets and trousers.

I have this one favorite suit of mine that has definitely been featured on this blog before.  Last week I decided to bite the bullet and see how it would look pairing the jacket separately with a different pair of trousers and the trousers with a different jacket. Well here’s how it looked:

 

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Turns out my skepticism was wrong about breaking up the suit, I find it looked great although I will admit I preferred the look of the jacket with the grey trousers than I did the trousers with the navy blazer. Guess sometimes the “trends” are good after all.

I will leave you with some tips though if you are planning on giving this a go.

  1. If your suit is patterned like mine, pair the pieces with a neutral color.
  2. Solids of different colors match together. Create that contrast!
  3. Feeling daring? Go pattern on pattern BUT the patterns must be different scales (ex. large stripes with a subtle houndstooth)
  4. Own that shit! Seriously it’s all in the confidence, if you’re not comfortable wearing the combo, it will show to observers.

There you have it my friends, a new way to wear your suits and a refreshing breath of fresh air to your old ones. Have a great weekend!

 

-The Don

A look ahead…Your Spring/Summer 2018 Trends!

Good Evening my dapper friends,

One of the advantages I have of working in the menswear industry is access to future trends that will shape the year ahead. I’d like to share with you tonight some that you could look forward to for next summer so you can get on board and be a trendsetter!

Note: These are the trends that I personally feel will have an impact and not every trend that I have come across.

 

  •  Three Button suit 
    • Yeah, I was surprised to see this one too. But as it turns out there is not much neckwear being showcased from designers these days. So what’s the compromise? A higher button stance and super soft shoulders to be bold and stand out from the crowd.
  • Hawaiian Print Shirts
    • The cheesy vacation shirt is back! (I think I owned a few as a kid). But this time around the prints are funkier and more abstract, and the quality of fabric much better.

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  • Pleated Trousers
    • These have picked up steam over the last few seasons and don’t appear to be going anywhere! Whether single or double pleated, the fit is kept modern (tapered legs) so you won’t look like a  1990s middle manager in billowy double pleated khakis.
  • Techno Suit
    • I’ll admit, this is one that I can’t get on board with. With the rise of athleisure, the lines between classic tailoring and it have become blurred in S/S ’18. Suits made from technical fabrics such as nylon layered with activewear could be one way to make a splash. Just don’t expect me to be rocking the look!
  • I ❤ The 90s
    • In terms of sportswear, the menswear industry has fallen hard for the 1990s. This means big graphic prints, oversized logos, floral prints and oversized nylon jackets and tracksuits. Bust out the old gear or buy some new!

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  • Relaxed Trousers
    • So, pleats are back, we know that. But we will also begin to see a reversal of the skinny fit trend as cropped looser silhouettes will begin to spring up. And it’s not only limited to casual pants, expect to see dress pants loosen up as well. Let the “boys” breathe again!

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  • Who wears short shorts?!
    • This time back to the 1980s and the short shorts. Or if you ask me, just shorts. I mean seriously how were these ever considered “shorts”? The inseams have shrank back to 1980s NBA short levels when shorts were, you know, short! Get some color on those legs and make a bold style statement at the same time!

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  • The Espadrille, all grown up!
    • Ahh, the espadrille. Classic summer beach/lounge shoe. Not according to a few designers such as Ralph Lauren who has been featuring the summer shoe dressed up with suiting pieces. Also expect fabrics to be more upscale, from the traditional canvas up to suede and leather.

 

So there you have it, a few of the trends that I feel can make an impact for S/S 2018. You want to be ahead of the curve, you know what to do!

 

Stay dapper my friends,

-The Don

 

 


Sources

Garner, Stephen. “Tips from an Editor Abroad.” MR Magazine, Aug. 2017, pp. 42–43.
Fisher, Michael. “8 Must Have Trends for Spring 2018 .” MR Magazine, July 2017, pp. 38–40.
Macko, Michael. “Shoe Business.” MR Magazine, Aug. 2017, pp. 44–45.

 

Update August 2016

Hello Dapperites,

 

Just thought I would give an update to you all since I have been inactive on this blog for the past few months. I was extremely busy throughout the months of July and August powering through the final 2 classes of my university career. I can now proudly say that I am a graduate of Carleton University with a B.A in Communications!

Furthermore, I am now being forced to move back to Montreal due to my not being able to find a job in my field here in Ottawa. This saddens me very much as I have grown to love this great city of Ottawa and view my hometown of Montreal as a sinking ship, a cesspool of economic turmoil and political chaos. Nonetheless, I know I have many family and friends and most importantly my girlfriend that will support me. I vow to return to the city of Ottawa with a job in the near future!

Lastly, I would like invite you all to check out my side project, done for one of my classes, chronicling the history of menswear entitled “A History of Dapperness“. Now with more time on my hands I plan on being active again on this blog as well as my side project which I am keen on continuing. Thank you for reading and thank you for your support. Until next time….

 

Stay Dapper my friends!

 

-The Don

Wardrobe Workhorse: The OCBD (Oxford Cloth Button Down)

Good day my dapperites,

Today I wanted to talk to you about a wardrobe staple, a reliable, multitasking workhorse. I am talking of course about a piece of classic American prep, the OCBD.

So what is the OCBD? It’s an “Oxford Cloth Button Down”. Oxford cloth is a very durable and hard wearing type of cotton. And before you ask, yes it is one that requires ironing (or not, depending on how you wear it, but I’ll get into that later). The style originated in England by polo players to keep their collars from flapping in the wind and was brought to this side of the pond by John E. Brooks, grandson of Brooks Brothers’ founder, Henry Brooks. The rest they say, is history.

So what makes the OCBD such a versatile option in the wardrobe? Simply put, it can be a dress shirt, a sport shirt or a layering piece. Iron it nice and crisp and throw it with a suit and tie like this:

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Or wear it with the sleeves rolled up like this:

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And you know what the beauty of the shirt is? The more you wash it and wear it, the softer it becomes and the more comfortable it is. Eventually it will start fraying on the cuffs and collar, but does that mean you should stop wearing it? Hell no. As the years go on, your age shows, so why shouldn’t your shirt show its like a badge of honor. Wear it proudly.

OCBD aficionados on menswear sites and forums could debate hours and hours over what brand is the best and talk about the much sought after collar roll . My personal (and perhaps biased) take? The originators, Brooks Brothers still got the game on lock. They’ve recently revamped their shirt to remove the inner lining on the collar and cuffs, thus reinstating the “oldschool” collar roll of yesteryear, and added mother of pearl buttons. Of course they upped the price to $140 USD per shirt ($189 CAD). Not worth it in my opinion unless you get em’ on sale. But you can still buy whatever stock is left of the old version for a pretty good discount. Now, not all my OCBDs are Brooks Brothers, but they are definitely my brand of choice. By the way, what colors should you go with? White, Blue and Pink are the all time classics.

Of course this post would not be complete without a showing of my personal collection of OCBDs:

 

 

 

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You must be asking yourself, are those 2 on the right identical? Yes, yes they are. Why? Because one of them was accidentally put in the dryer and as George Costanza once said “There was significant shrinkage” the sleeves were shrunk and made it unwearable as a dress shirt, so it’s relegated to casual wear. I had to get a replacement. Bottom 3 are Brooks Brothers the top 2 are from Simons.

Maintenance for these shirts? Wash them in warm/cold water and DO NOT put them in the dryer, they DO shrink. Just hang to dry and iron them as needed!

There you have it, a quick primer/intro on the OCBD and why I call it the “Wardrobe Workhorse”. Get yourself a few and wear them for years and years. They’ll love you as much as you love them!

Stay Dapper my friends,

 

-The Don 😉