Month: February 2018

Sportswear Meets Tailoring: Here to Stay! (And only evolving more and more)

Good Evening Ladies and Gentlemen,

Tonight’s post will be written through the lens of my present experience in the menswear industry focusing on a trend that I am seeing season after season. One that I believe is not going away anytime soon (for better or for worse), and that is the trend of intersecting sportswear and tailoring. With each passing season more and more brands are showcasing their tailored garments alongside sportswear pieces. Just Spring/Summer 2018 alone brought us these:

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Hermes, Paul Smith, Berluti, Image from Esquire

Which brand can lay claim to being a true pioneer for this recent trend? For me you’d have to look no further than Ermenegildo Zegna. So what makes Zegna so special? Well for one, they are a truly rare company, one that controls the entire production process form raw material to finished goods (they actually started out as a wool mill that expanded to manufacturing clothing, the mill side of the business is still active today). So why do I consider to be Zegna a pioneer in this field? Because of their ability to control the entire process, they are able to create their own unique fabrics which have revolutionized tailored garments. I am talking about their special “Techmerino Wash and Go” fabric.

Through this innovative fabric, Zegna has created suits and blazers that are breathable, waterproof just like sportswear and perhaps even more shocking, can actually be washed in a household washing machine and hung to dry and be good as new! This makes it the perfect travel suit/jacket. I fully expect to see other fabric mills and menswear brands competing to get a similar product to market.

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Z-Zegna SS 18, Photo from Woolmark.com

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Z Zegna SS18, Woolmark.com

As you can see from the photo above, brands like Zegna are merchandising their sportswear combined with tailoring and this has created opportunities for retailers to pass on this trend to consumers specifically in the North American market as retailer Ed Boas from Lanes in Miami mentions:

“Selling tailored clothing in a sportswear world is a matter of creating desire.”1

That desire to me is simple, merchandising sportcoats with sportswear tells consumers a story and demonstrates the versatility of tailored pieces matching with sportswear. Scott Noris of Men’s Wearhouse explains:

 “If we show outfits fully rigged on mannequins, guys understand the versatility of sportcoats and buy them.”2

A little something should be mentioned about these popular, super soft unconstructed sportcoats thats have been popular in Italy for years, is that it is only now catching the eye of the North American market. What do I expect? I expect that once more and more men discover how comfortable tailoring can be, they will continue to buy these types of garments in bunches.

Expect to see the sportswear/tailoring trend to continue into the Fall 2018 season. The key words here are stretch, stretch, stretch! Garments that are made for travel that move with you. As the line blurs more and more between tailoring and sportswear, be a little daring. Wear a super soft sportcoat with a pair of neat, well fitting track pants (no oversized logos on them please!) or cords, or jeans! My personal favorite sportcoat? My Jack Victor soft shouldered, unconstructed, half lined blue hopsack with patch pockets.

Grazie, and as always, keep it dapper.

 

-The Don


1. Grossman, Karen Alberg. “Tailored Sportswear: The Modern Male Dress Code.” Accessed February 24, 2018. http://www.mr-mag.com/tailored-sportswear-modern-male-dress-code/.

2. Grossman, Karen Alberg. “Tailored Sportswear: The Modern Male Dress Code.” Accessed February 24, 2018. http://www.mr-mag.com/tailored-sportswear-modern-male-dress-code/.

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Look of the (Saturday) Night

Good Evening Ladies and Gents,

I bring you the Saturday night edition of “Look of the day”

Now, I have written about sprezzatura here before. But did you know another approach to that is to mix formal and informal pieces, for example what I did tonight was wear a comfortable unstructured half lined sport coat with patch pockets, shirt and tie but worn with my favorite pair of jeans. Brunello Cucinelli is famous for that look, a quintessential Italian “je ne sais quoi” attitude to dressing and in life.

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And of course can’t forget the Chelsea boots with a rolled up jean cuff!

<——-  Great book if you’re wanting to know more about the art of sprezzatura! Enjoy, until next time…

 

-The Don

Looks of the Week!

Good Evening to you Dapperites,

Just wanted to share a few of my favorite looks from the past week, enjoy!

 

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Unstructured half lined patch pocketed sportcoat (my favorite style jacket), blue OCBD, wool/silk tie, grey trousers and of course a punch of red socks)

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2 button peak lapel Jack Victor suit, Eph Apparel custom contrast collar shirt, Brooks Brothers bright paisley tie, Tie Bar pocket square and Black/Brown brand cufflinks)

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Navy blue Ted Baker SPJ, white Zara shirt, custom Eph Apparel trousers (part of a suit), vintage tie that belonged to my dad, and Chelsea boots to round it out

Have a great weekend,

 

-The Don

Brickell Men’s Products: A Review

Good Evening Dapperites,

Bet you thought I was gone for good eh? Well I thought I was too, I was getting busier with work, I was tired, lazy, Doesn’t matter though I’m back now dammit! And tonight I’d like to talk about and review products from an awesome company I recently discovered and that is Brickell Men’s Products. (Note, I am in no way paid by the company to review their products nor was I sent them for free, I paid my own money for any product I purchased)

Who are Brickell and what sets them apart? Well first off the name “Brickell” comes from a pretty posh neighborhood in Miami, Florida, where the two founders are from. They sought to create grooming products for men containing natural, quality ingredients after being horrified to discover that most grooming products on the market were filled with toxins and synthetic chemicals.

What products do they carry? A better question would be what don’t they carry! They have a skin care line (face washes, scrub, mask and moisturizers), anti-aging (serums, cream, eye balm), shaving line (pre-shave oil, beard oil, shave cream, aftershave balm), hair care (shampoo, conditioner, pomade),as well as body wash, body lotion, hand cream and lip balm!

So finally, what products have I tried? Well I started out by trying their “Sample Kit”, which I feel provides excellent value to introduce yourself to their brand. Free if your in the US, only pay shipping if you’re in Canada like me (came out to about $10). You get 15 sample size versions of their best selling products, they also recently introduced a feature that allows you to build your own sample kit!

I’ll say that I pretty much got the kit because I was interested in the eye balm, face scrub and shave cream. Along the way however I did end up falling in love with the body lotion with its tingly feeling and quick absorption, this will be the next product I buy from them once my current lotion runs out.

So, for the eye balm (officially called Restoring Eye Balm) I will say I absolutely love what this did for my eyes. As we get older, the first signs of aging always appear around the eyes, and as a chronic sufferer of tired looking eyes with dark circles. this balm fit the bill. Immediately after putting it on my eyes feel rejuvenated and energized. I kid you not this stuff seems to put an extra spring in my step! At $52 CAD it’s at par with most quality eye treatments for men but the quality ingredients (protein peptides, caffeine and hyaluronic acid). I’d recommend this one.

The other product I ended up purchasing was the Renewing Face Scrub. Why a scrub? Well even though we wash our faces (you do wash your face with a quality cleanser right?) it is not enough to clear off all the crap that accumulates on there throughout the week. That’s why twice a week it is recommended to use a scrub to exfoliate and purge your pores of any lingering impurities. Using a scrub before shaving as well will soften the whiskers for a closer shave. And trust me that’s exactly what this stuff does. I’ve never gotten a closer shave than when I use this beforehand. Also, the natural ingredients such as aloe vera, avocado butter, vitamin E, pumice, and jojoba beads have been an absolute delight to my complexion. You really feel and see a difference when using quality products. At $28.60 CAD, this scrub should last you a few months (only a minimal amount is needed per use). I’d recommend it.

Now, what products would I consider buying in the future? Well for someone who has sensitive skin when shaving the brushless shave cream and instant relief aftershave are ones I would probably buy. I have no need to buy them right now as I shave once a week maximum and still have product left from my sample kit. But each time I use them I kid you not, I have no redness post shave and rarely get nicked. The only reason why I would maybe not go with the cream is the fact that this is a brushless cream and I am pretty into the whole “traditional wet shaving” thing.

There is one item I am considering at the moment and that is their Daily Strengthening Shampoo . While I enjoyed the sample of this and am currently searching for a quality shampoo, the $26 CAD price tag has me a tad hesitant at the moment!

UPDATE: I ended up purchasing a Canadian brand natural shampoo, Live Clean Classic Men’s Shampoo, paraben and sulfate free from Well.ca. $13 with shipping. I’ll post a review when it arrives.

To conclude, Brickell Men’s Products definitely fit the bill for the modern gentleman looking to take care of himself from head to toe. Quality natural ingredients to help a man present the best version of himself to the world. Feel good, look good!

Until next time, stay dapper my friends!

-The Don